New York-based designer Peter Do will oversee Helmut Lang’s men’s and women’s collections, effective May 15. His debut collection, spring 2024, will be presented during New York Fashion Week later this year.
Since launching his namesake label in 2018, Do has quickly emerged as a rising star in the industry, known for sharp tailoring and a modern take on workwear. As a student at New York’s Fashion Institute of Technology, his 2014 graduation collection won the LVMH prize for young fashion designers. Soon after, he was hired by Celine, under Phoebe Philo, and also designed for Derek Lam.
In his new role, Do will lend this credibility to the ailing Helmut Lang brand, which has seen a revolving door of designers since its namesake founder left the label in 2005. In 2009, the brand was purchased by Uniqlo owner Fast Retailing in 2009, as part of the Japanese retailer’s acquisition of Theory. In 2018, it restructured its business, effectively cutting sales in North America by half.
Do will remain in New York and also continue his role at the helm of his own label.
“(Do’s) clear and innovative approach to design very much aligns with the brand’s ethos and heritage,” Helmut Lang’s chief executive Dinesh Tandon said in a statement. “His experience with luxury fashion houses and his acclaimed eponymous label makes him a natural choice for this role.”
“Last year, when I was thinking about the next move in my career, one thing remained consistent even when everything else felt uncertain. I needed to continue doing my part in helping the city I love most regain its stature as the centre of gravity for everyone who cares about radical thinking in fashion,” Do say in a statement posted on Instagram. “No one embodied this spirit more definitively than Helmut Lang.”